Відео

It's funny to hear and see comments about "copying" other brands, but what the fk, they're all copy-pasta. I prefer to pay for the product, not the hype. All cars have round wheels, in your logic they all copy each-other. I got a K1C over a P1S and I'm looking forward to the K2 Plus. brands vs products, on teardowns, they are all the same breed, Made in PRC. Good for them, great products, dumb consumers.

И не стыдно так плохо откалиброванный первый слой показывать? Этож вообще атас.

Fixed my dimensional accuracy issues on my BambuLabs P1S, Thank You!

Complimenti😊

Your vids are super useful. I hate to criticize but can you please keep the thing you are playing with in view?

Your first layer needs more squish.

Aí que que fdp!!!! Top!!!!

Could you put a .2mm nozzle in it?

Anyone face a problem with ender 3 pro with 4.2.2 board and bltouch 3.1. change to this config. [display] lcd_type: st7920 cs_pin: EXP1_7 sclk_pin: EXP1_6 sid_pin: EXP1_8 encoder_pins: ^EXP1_5, ^EXP1_3 click_pin: ^!EXP1_2 [output_pin beeper] pin: EXP1_1 [board_pins] aliases: EXP1_1=PC6,EXP1_3=PB10,EXP1_5=PB14,EXP1_7=PB12,EXP1_9=<GND>, EXP1_2=PB2,EXP1_4=PB11,EXP1_6=PB13,EXP1_8=PB15,EXP1_10=<5V>,FIL_RUNOUT=PC6 [bltouch] sensor_pin: ^PB1 control_pin: PB0 x_offset: -44 y_offset: -6 z_offset: 0 probe_with_touch_mode: true stow_on_each_sample: false set_output_mode: 5V

actual vid seems to start at 06:00. just a fucking yapp festival before that for no fucking apparent reason other than to cash in on the viewers. ur telling me u needed to tell me why i looked up a video on how to upgrade the heated bed? enough said, fuck you

Cab you show your voron 2.4 (and what black fillment do u used for the voron) bc i just ordered a voron and i need help to chose colors

Купить 3д принтер распечатать 3д принтер вернуть обратно в магазин 3д принтер

How to rotate bridges to 45 degrees?

You can use cone surface to connect any two profiles, use 45 degrees or angle 2:1 (about 63.435 degrees)

What filament did you use for this part?

Vas a hacer tu casa con eso 😂

What bother me about this video is why you did not explain the fact that UART is hardware implementation and SPI is a protocol which means UART is more expense and real estate taken on the board. While at the speed at which communication is need on a 3 D printer both SPI and UART are on level playing ground as neither is better than the other. Since SPI is a protocol it is much easier to implement and is cheaper in the long run as less space on the board and less hardware which means cheaper for the MFG's which means more profit. Actually moving to SPI on the 5160 was not only profit motivated but the driver real estate can be much smaller footprint allowing them to up the anti on the half bridges used for control which means better quality at the same time. Another thing is it took you half a video to get to the point of this vid in the first place which was lack luster. Next time do better homework and your vid's will be much better.

wich slicer and name of the first layer pattern, nice, cheers!

wait so you coun't just tighten the nut thing above the little wheel?

I got my mini today and the main board fan is quiet laud, nit sure if it is possible to slow it down by software or replace it with a better one.

It would have been nice to see the actual capabilities of the hotend and heated chamber with more exotic materials like high temp nylon or polycarbonates. I think this is where this machine could shine when compared to other printers like the p1s or k1c. I get that the firmware is old, but does it really affect the quality of the parts when printing special filaments?

Use lead.

That lead screw seems to move to much even when you account for a coupler compensating for misalignments. Couplers still have their limits and to ensure those limits are reached you still need to align the rods and the screws better. Also, the proper way to install the helical beam couplers (or the flexible coupler) is to lift the screw a millimetre or two before tightening the screw. It might be a matter of preference but helical beam couplers with integral clams might provide a more uniform grip on the screws. Supporting the build plate with Oldham couplers and placing thrust bearing between the motor and the helical beam should help with other alignment issues and reduce the load on the motors.

Simple explanation

Hi, Is it possible to disassemble XY Joint? I want replace Idler to GT2 Idler...

They don't carry it in the U.S.

Thank you 😮

Good Video - I have a Neptune 3 Max and a Longer lk5 Pro. Both are good printers but the Max prints bigger and faster. I would love to know what setting in Cura I would have to change if I installed a 0.6 nozzle, because I do have one but have no idea what to change, bit of a newbie. Oh, the cable on your printer isn't installed correctly, I did the same thing as you when I installed it the first time and yes, it dragged on the bed, reroute it to point up and you will never have that problem again.

besst tip nozzzle hardness review

Sooooo I'm new to 3d printer world.... whats a voron??? That printer looks freaking awesome tho! 😅

😅 I thought you changed the motor from a stepper to a bldc and called it upgraded 😂

It's a delta. Pretty par for the course.

To prevent the z-steppers to go idle, you simply could connect the !EN pin of the stepper drivers to ground instead to the corsponding I/O pin. There is normaly no need for the z-motors to go idle, unless while tinkering (but this should be done while the printer is off anyway). So imho no big deal. I actually did this on an old bedslinger and it worked well.

No WiFi? Really? How stupid! Deal breaker! They dropped this to $469 but it still is a no-brainer to go with the Bambu Labs P1S or P1P.

Great tutorial and very thorough. I guess I'm a bit slow but you talked so fast I had to keep replaying the video to understand what you were saying.

The quality of your editing is insanely good, especially around the 4:14 mark when you timed the punches to the music. I appreciate that kind of attention to detail, keep up the good work!

Ok but what screwdriver is that?

Wow, what a pain in the ass

Add a coupler on the ptfe tube. when you change filaments, pop open the coupler and do it by hand at that point.

This may need to change or it's gonna loose a ton of sales surely ?

do they just turn on when you turn the printer on or is it possible to be able to control them via RatOS?

I wouldn't say disaster, buuuut you might what to dehydrate your filament a little longer next time...

We have the Super Racer and when there is a clog it's just as bad to clear the clog. You have to take apart the whole hot end and it's not fun.

16:31 Talk me when you make 5 axis desktop CNC. that will be nice.

8:38 so you sell me water for the price of diamond?

Looks like a rushed design 🫤

If any of the measurements confuse anyone, go to 2:47 and pause to go frame by frame using , and . You can watch him do each measurement 3 times and track through until he gets to the one you need to see.

Я думал ты его сейчас в космос запустишь😅😅😅

Could you share the links to some of those parts?